K25&beyond d32 – to the glacier lake (18.9.25)

no – no respect for culture, no protection of world heritage. Starting with a can littered under that sign

No motorbikes this time, but mules, which is more pleasant, but still irritating when you see young people being carried up for their Instagram (etc.) posts and staring at their phones most of the time.

At the highest point, a cow was waiting for all the hikers/tourists, a little too interested in other people’s food, which is anyway unhealthy not only for cows. Michi, Ludo, and Fiona even went down to the lake, while Efan, Leo, and I wanted to rest our knees (we had a long descent ahead of us anyway), conserve our breath, and save our energy. It didn’t seem worth it, but then they showed us photos worth to regret our decision.

We chose a different route back, with a “No Trespassing” sign at the beginning, mainly because of the black bears, who occasionally like to pick up a tourist, but the scariest moment was when two mules made a full speed race downhill. It didn’t look like they were willing or able to react to random hikers.

Finally, we reached the village entrance, where a garden restaurant awaited us. A fantastic atmosphere – the long hike behind us, the incredible view around us, and good food in front of us. And then three ladies in traditional costumes began a dance around a fire. Ludo and Michi immediately joined them, the ice was broken, and a large crowd streamed around. Leo and I stood at a safe distance, pretending that our job was to document the situation. The rain drove us home.


On this trip, I mostly slept briefly and poorly. This is another reason why I think I should give up traveling and instead organize my daily routine to find some inner peace in my (personal!) life that doesn’t justify my permanent stress levels.
Humanity and the impending ruin of everything that could enable a good life for all, on the other hand, justifies any worries. I had experienced perhaps the best of humanity in my life, with the potential for paradise, but a rapid decline of that potential, caused by unscrupulous “leaders,” criminal billionaires, and a mass of people who underestimate their influence, both for the worse and for the worse.

That night was my shortest. Only an hour and then a short nap before I gave up and wrote in my journal. I wondered how long this could go on without collapsing, still hoping my body would choose the gentler option and simply sleep.

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