Planalto Cycles

Arash had given me the location of another bike shop and that of his office and I planned a round tour for my GPS. After a while I saw that the tour was planned the other way around, so I had to find it partly by myself and all the time the GPS by enervating beep sounds was telling my how wrong I am. On the way I saw a shop selling sewing machines and thought they might have metal springs – and they had! Before I could even get out my purse, the man said: “No money!”

After this first success, I tried to get new screws for my bike mirror. In a shop for repairing vacuum cleaners, the man changed my screws.
the new screws had phillips heads and he changed them without taking any money,

but I was so happy about the new screws that I went to another shop to buy a cake and juice for him to say thank you. Then I went to my bike and saw that the mirror had new screw but was broken! (the screws were too long and came to or through the glass from the backside)

Esay come, easy go…
Well, in fact I was on my way to a bike shop, so I went there. On the way, a motor cyclist started talking to me in German. He wanted to invite me for lunch, take pictures and exchange contacts. Minutes after exchanging numbers, he sent me the selfies and some messages, but there will be no occasion to meet again I guess….

In that street, in the typical Iranian way, there was not one bike shop but one besides the other. The third of them had a mirror that showed some pros (good adjustable with simple screws, needed less space in the street) and cons (less view and shivering on the go) but in any case, better than a broken one or nothing.

Hafez street

60cm Santa Claus bought by a mother for her child in a confectionary (Shiraz, early October)

In the afternoon, Arash, Negin, Nikoo and I made went to the Saadi tomb.

..but first we created new Ice cream – let’s call it “sunken faloodeh” (my fingers are not that dirty – it is the brown part outside the glove)

Negin had her camera and we made some photos to compare the quality.

Arash’S first school, near tomb of Saadi

She won, of course ?.

Arash smiles: Sony (Martin) Arash earnest: Canon (Negin)

So if some photos look better than usual, then they are from her camera OR they are from Arash, who surfed an artistic wave and made all the other pictures from there.

from this perspective, I should stop eating… or in general?

I wanted to emphasize Arash’s artwork, maybe I did

After that, we went (along an illegal book seller with even more illegal books)…

ok, if Iranian have a nostalgy for their Shah R.P. it may have some reasons. BUT no excuse for Hitler!

…to Arash’s parents, remeeting also Hamed’s family.

Please note, that in Iranian households it is absolutely normal to use bikes when you are tired of walking those big distances in the living rooms.

We didn’t stay long, “only” for a tea with cake, then the fruits-section and an ash (soup/stew).
On the way home, we enjoyed the big sound in Arash’s car, listening to a wide range of Iranian music. (maybe video will be available in November)
At home, Nikoo wanted to ring at the door and I said, better not, because maybe Amir is sleeping, but instead, there was Amin, Shoreh’s brother, with Sara and their kids Sogand and Arsalan.
Two days before, we had been talking about the Austrian soup “Grießnockerlsuppe” that I would cook, but our schedule didn’t allow so far and I should do it now!
Well, I had tried to get the main ingredient, wheat semolina, and in the shop, they had attested that I had the right product, but when I opened the bag, it was very fine bread crumbs. Maybe better for me, because if I would have failed with Grießnockerlsuppe, I would have no excuse, now I had, because the dumplings that I now made, were only a emergency case plan B. They were too hard and the soup was much too salty,

but I decided to cook it from now on in that ways for everyone who wants to emigrate from Iran and tell them that this is how food is like in Austria and they wouldn’t have any other choice for eating.

mixed feeling come up when I read the name of a port – it shows me that I come nearer to the end of Iran time

This morning, I wanted to solve some tasks:
Fixing the gears and the mirror of my bike, get a printed version of the current information sheet Negin had made (but I will keep my original one from Parastoo, of course!), buy something to be able to make Grießnockerlsuppe in the evening, some other food stuff and a tooth brush (the old one will go into cleaning my chain), get small steel springs for adapting my AA charger to AAA batteries and a kind of generic to my “Vitawund” healing salve.
So, in a bike shop the gears got fixed, but the man also had not the fitting screwdriver for the mirror. When I was looking around, what shop could have some of these items, a man with a bike approached me and started talking in German (because he had seen German writing on my shirt, but normally this would not be enough for talking German, he knew it because of living several years in Berlin) and asked if I would need any help. He and his friend went with me to another bike shop (apparently bankrupt and now empty) and as next option they found a garage where they could fix the mirror (my ideal solution would be to change the screws, so I can do it by myself, because it will not last forever). Then they helped me to find a shop for my printout of the Iran information, we made another of my too-fast-done-photos together

and they went to Vakil Bazar (they had invited me to join, but I had been there the other day and also wanted to back home at 1) At the way home, I could buy some items from my list,

interesting, what you can buy open at the street!

so only the steel springs, the healing salve and changing the mirror screws are open for a next tour.
Nikoo enjoyed playing her guitar in front of the mirror with open strings and wanted to bring it to school to sing a song and accompanying herself.

When I showed her something to do with the left hand, she was very skilful but after that she said, she will not bring the guitar to class, because playing is harder than she thought.

I feel a bit sorry for that and at the same time I am surprised about her way of thinking and her self-assessment that is more self-critical than I had expected and than necessary.
In the evening, the family (except Negin, she had university until 8) went to the tomb of Hafes, a beautiful place crowded by people who seek inner and outer peace and those looking for best selfie positions.

We tried to find both – and Amir, who ran around keeping his parents busy…
At the exit, we met Negin and the youngest brother of Arash, Hamed, with Felor and their sons Mohammad and Ali.
Hamed is skydiving instructor and maybe that is the reason why he aso is specialist in throwing screaming kids high in the air (and catching them again).
We went to a fast food restaurant and Mohammad and Ali asked funny question about me. And I again ate pizza in Iran (in Isfahan and Shiraz – both places more famous for other things)

In the morning, Negin, Arash and I went to the Bazar Enghelab, because I wanted to find a Ukulele for Nikoo as a first step to a guitar that she likes a lot. There, we only could find a decoration mini guitar, but one salesman gave a hint to another shop where we should find it.

why not find the last dinner in a bazar in Shiraz?!

Arash went there with me, Negin left to University. They had a lot of high quality (and high price) instruments in that shop and this also applies to the ukuleles they had. So it was no good option for the moment. Arash had the idea to buy the decoration guitar to introduce Nikoo to the feeling and handling of a guitar and later she can learn guitar on a “real” instrument, if she still is interested. So we did.

Next was the meeting with Nazanin in the Iranian travelling center. She had been very kind and supportive regarding getting my ferry ticket to Dubai and she had asked for some pictures of my trip through Iran fitting to the social media internet presence. So we looked at the photos of my trip and chose some.
At noon, Arash had to pick up Nikoo from her school and at home she could try to play a bit on the guitar. The instrument has the right size, but you cannot use every fret, so, let’s see what I can show to Nikoo.
Shohre had cooked lunch for 2 families as in the afternoon we went to the village Siakh Darengoon to visit uncle Darush (one of the 5 children that Arash’s grandpa had with his first wife, while Arash’s mum is one of the 7 children of grandpa’s 2^nd wife, who, by the way, was the niece of his 1^st wife) – where was I? ah: – together with Arashs brother Mostafa and his wife Zohre (who, by the way is Shore’s sister, and I think this is the reason why Shore’s mum is not only Negin’s aunt but also her grandma – I got a brief introduction by Negin at night and there are some more complexities than those to cope with).

But in the end it was like that:
Two cars with two families went to an uncle for lunch.
hm… I just wonder:
when the brothers Arash and Mostafa married the two sisters Shore and Zohre, what kind of cousins are Nikoo (Arash + Shore) and Surur (Mostafa + Zohre)?
Ok, they played like sisters, look like sisters,

and we had not only lunch but teatime(s) and fruits and cakes…
Darush had been in Germany for several years, and thus speaks German well. He cares not only for a big house and a bigger garden but for a flock of dogs around this place.

when we came, Arash and Mostafa first started letting light in!

it was not possible to start the stereo…

…and, of course, it was not possible to win against Mostafa 😉

We went back to Shiraz and soon after, Arash went with me to his late-evening yoga class. It was my second yoga class, my first had been in Taipei 2015 and I can say that this time I could understand more words the teacher said, but of course not the meaning of the instructions. So I just made a c&p variant of it and with some help of Arash, the teacher and some people around who translated, I could do those exercises.

the white guys in the middle: Arash (kneeling), teacher and I

Again, I saw in this day how fast strength gets lost, although I currently lead a kind of active life.

In the morning, Arash went to work, Negin to university (bringing Nikoo to school) and Mustafa fetched me for a sightseeing tour.
First stop was at the Karim Khan citadel. (18^th cent.)

A lot had to be renovated, maybe because it before now had been a prison or because no one had cared for it for long (first I thought, because of warfare but found no information)

Then we went to the old and big Vakil Bazar.

The smell there is dominated by spices, partly offered in big bags. In one of the yards of the bazar, you find the Moshir house.

those who fear that belief is not enough for their safety, can buy superstitious weapons against the evil

Maybe the highlight of the tour was the Shah e Cheragh Shrine, starting alone by its size:
You enter a big yard, come to a gate to get to an even bigger yard and wherever you look, you see beautiful buildings.

sometimes I can’t help but taking a picture, although I know it will not show what meets the eye

We walked on to the Manteghi Nezhad historical house which now is a museum for Islamic art.

A friend of Mustafa not only served us delicious juice,

he also played on the santur for us. (Somewhen, in November, a video should follow).

After all that walking, Mustafa enthusiastically sighed “ice cream” and the latter followed soon:)
We went home where I fought against those too many photos and tried to update the blog, interrupted by pampering fruits, then lunch,

kids eating pasta with sauce at their beds with their hands – would this be possible in Austrian families?

then tea&cake, then fruits…
Later in the afternoon, Nikoo had Karate class.

this is Viennese “Reichsbrücke” (bridge over Danube river) in a thriller playing in Vienna and the people talking Farsi 😀

So, we went there by car, And Arash, Amir and I went on to a car wash: You bring the car, someone washes and cleans for an hour and you get your car back. Meanwhile we made a walk with Amir in the buggy.
In the evening, during dinner, we had some interesting and sometimes funny conversation. Only examples: the famous “last exam”-dream (Years after high school you dream that your exam isn’t valid anymore, you have to pass it again, and have forgotten everything) is international. And a joke about Shiraz’ people laziness: a workstation burns, and a worker screams for help. A second worker says to him “when your mouth is open yet, please cry for help for me, too”.
To make the day complete, Arash and I made a short night walk.

Bahador woke up even earlier than me and when I got out of my room, breakfast was ready. I learned to know I new kind of halva, more a dark brown paste, made by Maryam’s mother and very tasty. I only had to cough one time, and Maryam not only gave me fruits for my trip, but some medicine to save my bronchia…
On the way, I saw a village/city from far seen meeting my idea of efficiency:
Normally, cities seem to grow, where the land is fruitful and by that covering more and more of that ground that would feed the population. In the case of Zarghan, the city seems to be on barren ground and the houses are high, so in the same area more people can live.

I didn’t say beautiful, I said efficient

After the second hill,

I had expected to have a good view on Shiraz, but in fact I had to wait for that until I more or less was in the city.

With Arash I had arranged to arrive at 11:50 and because of leaving before 7 and only 50km (with to hills), I knew I would be earlier. My plan was, to go to the confectionery, Arash had told me about, to buy some cakes as dessert for the family. Maybe Arash knew, too, that I would be early, because at 10 he called me when I was near the center on a bridge over that “river” Khoskh

the river is modest enough to share his bed with cars on the left and the right

and when I reached the house and got down from my bike he stood there waiting. Of course, now he was the one who bought the cakes…
Short after, Arash made the first sightseeing tour with me, visiting two gardens. The first was the Afif Abad Garden, one of the oldest gardens in Shiraz (2^nd half of 19^th cent.).

i like “cold weapons” more than hot ones

In the Palace is a weapon museum, as the garden belonged to the army.

Above, you can see some beautiful rooms

extra room for taking on and off clothes

What a deplorable nobleman saw when he looked out of the window

and then a window in the inner palace from where you can look through all the rooms between there and the entrance to see visitors come.

The second garden belongs to the University of Shiraz, showing many breedings of roses, fountains,

unofficially some animals (I don’t know their names)

and a street lined with cypress trees.

In the later afternoon, I got a tast of the musical talents of the kids. Originally, it would have been Negin playing on the violin, but soon her little sister joined in to sing not only good but with expression of a professional singer and then Armin also made is contribution on Negin’s old keyboard. (I will have to readjust that scene as I didn’t want to interfere with the camera)
In the evening, Nikoo had English class and meanwhile we visited 2 smaller parks nearby, the art garden, Sattarkhan garden

rich pomegranate trees and lush rosemary

and the neighbouring Be’Sat park.

Then Arash went to the public pool with me by bike. The water is very warm, not many visitors were there, the pool is open until midnight and at the entrance, you must deliver your own shoes and take some slippers out of a basket. So far, some facts. We met Arash’s brother Mustafa there, who would continue my sightseeing tour the next day.
At home, Arash started planning the rest of my trip to Bandar Lengeh. His ambition is, to find someone (friend or relative) for every night of this section (as he also had done between Isfahan and Shiraz). Besides that, he calculated that one week remains and made clear where I would stay this week: at his home!

Because of work, Arash and his family left at 6 to Shiraz, so his aunt was alone after that lively Friday. We had breakfast with her self-made cherry jam, talking not too much (as we couldn’t)
I left in the cold morning (9° on my GPS) and after a few minutes, I met my first bike-packer in Iran. Daniel, an English teacher from Germany is also on his way to China, but first to Shiraz, so we exchanged contacts for a meeting there.

We both had been staying with a family and had decided to make an early visit at a historical site, he in Pasargad, I one step ahead, in Naqsh-e Rustam.
At 9 the thought of having a delicious snack made by Arash’s aunt made me hungry enough to stop for a break. I sat under a tree on which some lunch boxes were hanging in a bag for someone (else)
After about 25km, a farmer selling fruits waved to stop me. He was very euphoric and took a lot of selfies with me and wanted to have my whatsapp nr. I thought, I know this character….

Arriving in Naqsh-e Rustam was moving as there are some iconic sights on the world and these tombs belong to them.

In Naqsh-e Rustam, I took another look at my phone and saw new messages of the guy who wanted to invite me to his village, telling me that I had shortly met his cousin (the farmer who is similar euphoric to him…)
I did there my duty as a tourist and walked along those old graves and reliefs in early noon heat.

most tourists stayed only in the front part, avoiding too much walking in the heat

After that, Persepolis waited. At the parking, a young officer, Mohammed, stopped me at the gate. He sells the ticket for cars. He was eager to talk in German, French and English, wanted to talk about politics and emigration and would take care of my bike.
So I left him for the visit and bought a ticket. There a tour-guide offered to show me around for 70min and I thought this is a good way for me to do it.
She recommended to buy water because of the heat, but at the entrance she explained that for matters of religious respect drinking were not allowed at the palaces. She didn’t look as if she were joking so I just wondered what the purpose of a bottle with cold water would be that you only can drink when it is warm again.
She explained a lot, talking a bit mechanical, but also answering additional questions.

the template for Iran air

base of a revolving door

Armenian delegation bringing their treasures

spring chasing out winter

After 70min and two selfies, she left

and I decided to climb to the tomb at the hill in full sun and heat, because I wanted to be a good tourist.

When I came back to my bike; Mohammed wanted to talk on and offered me an extra lunch box of an officer that had recently died, but they still get is lunch…
And Daniel arrived, too. We started talking, then a man, that had met Daniel on the street, started talking to him and I changed back to Mohammed.
After a long time, we left, Daniel to find a place to stay as he wanted to see Persepolis in the morning, and I to Bahador in Marvdasht.
The place he had indicated on the map
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=29.9051323018046%2C52.837135791778564&z=17&hl=de
was empty, no house near and no person.

So I went back to the bigger street and asked someone to call him. He came and again I followed a car in the evening traffic. When we finally arrived at his home, we had done 7km…
We sat down for tea and his funny daughter Naghme (5) started a performance of gymnastics and Bruce Lee imitation, looking fiercely and (for me) moving too fast for good photos.

Her brother Zohrab (11), a quiet boy, learns Karate and Bahador does Varzesh-e-Bastani, where one out of a certain position wants to hit the upper leg of his opponent who tries to defend himself with a longer stick.
Dinner was good, and this time salad was the main course, without any rice, but with a lot of green side dishes and a chicken and fried potatoes.
I got an extra room (maybe the parents room?) and while a started writing this I heard Bahador studying for school with Zohrab.
Bathroom is in the yard, the washbasin in the open and I wonder how that works in winter when it is freezing.

Like always in the morning, it was fresh or even cold when I left Massoud’s family.

My plan was, to reach Pasargad, or more precisely, the village Madar Solyman, where I would meet Ashar and his family, between 11-12. So, I had decided to try not to get (or accept) invitations like the days before. The first kilometres mostly were slightly going down and maybe I also had a good wind from the back, so I was fast. And that provoked two ideas in combination with the plan to be in Pasargad early, one was, to break the record for 40km established on the way to Qom (please, don’t ask for a good reason for wishing to break a record) and the other one was, to cycle without any break, if I don’t need it.
These useless ideas brought a problem as after 25km there was a 40min climb. That meant, that my average of 27km/h for the first part and my record-breaking-wish were endangered by section with 8-12km/h. A reasonable adult person would discard useless plans, others try to stick to them. As I tried to climb as fast as (reasonably!!) possible, you can guess where I belong to.
I reached Pasargad without any break and with a new record for 40km at 10 and tried to message Arash. He was not available at that time and I just wanted to wait. But within 2min I was surrounded by a crowd of young teenager boys, making a lot of fuss, joking (about me) and being a bit silly. Neighbours opened gates to see what is going on and finally a man came and tried to understand the situation. He invited me home for the waiting time. It was a family only recently relocating from Tehran to Madar Solyman, so they didn’t know all of their neighbours yet.
Arash arrived soon, he had expected me at the set time, and we went to the home of his aunt. After a tea break, we left the lively place (7 kids running and laughing) with his daughter Negin who is very good in English and was engaged as translator to visit the historical site of Pasargadae. Arash had a lot to tell, from historical and cultural point of view, but also technical aspects like the construction of columns and Negin did her best to translate.

(Additional information and better pics available in the net!)
We went home to get another of those great Iranian lunches that in their elaboration always remind me on food at important festivity in Austria.

Negin and one family had to go back to Shiraz, so, the rest of the day we had to be more creative to communicate, but were quite successful with some digital help…
Next was a nap break followed by a tour to the mountainside with two cousins and one’s son. They showed me a 2500y old path carved in the rock.

If you see the dry riverbed it is hard to imagine that in former time it was necessary to make such efforts to escape the water.
Meanwhile, Arash had collected some wild figs from that tree. If you water them for a longer time (did he say one month?), you can eat them.

We made a stop for tea time, the tea to be prepared on the open fire.

On the way home, we payed a visit to Arash’s grandma, a 90y old lady living alone in an old big house. I was shy to ask her for a photo, so only cousins and a pic of Arash’s grandpa who for me looks so similar to Arash.

Dinner was great again and to my surprise later in the evening we gathered around a fireplace in the yard where Arash’s aunt enjoyed a waterpipe (besides another round of tea).

In the later evening a came back to my “duties” and uploaded photos (had not worked lately) and writing diary.

often I am to nervous to wait until thee camera is ready. result: blurred images….

Around 8, Ali arrived at the office. Again, he brought something to eat and prepared breakfast for both of us. Then came a friend of his and they started talking, so I tried to find a good moment to say good bye.

At a kind of toll house an officer stopped me for some Smalltalk and selfies. A group of women approached and wanted to sell me a book. They selected one with Farsi-English translations and I thought, maybe they are from a welfare organization as they were dressed all in a kind of uniform. So, I bought the book and hoped it could be of use for someone.

I only was driving for maybe an hour, to Surmarq, where an elder man stopped me and mimed inviting me to eat. He was so friendly and so I said yes, thank you. The problem was, that it was 10:30 and later I realized that he had meant I should stay for lunch. We could not communicate to well, but he understood that I would leave soon after lunch.

I short while after leaving this man (and his wife who had cooked and parallel had done the laundry) a car stopped (I should make a shortcut for “a car stopped”) and it was the officer, who was so happy to meet me again ? Farshad is doctor for vetenerian medicine and now works as a soldier, as he said, and at home, they have a farm growing tomatoes and peaches etc, and he would like to invite me for a stay. We exchanged whatsapp numbers and I said that I am not sure how to organize it but will know tomorrow.
The sky became cloudy and darker

and when the road lead uphill it started to rain! In this situation a minibus stopped and out came those Germans I had met on the pigeon’s tower with there friend and tour guide.

The road didn’t stop going uphill although I thought it would at 2300 or 2400, but in the end it was 2549, more than Meghri pass, a new record for me. Btw., the record in going straight now is 132km (but I didn’t the complete 132 today).

I wondered why the cars went so slow downhill, but then I heard a crash and one of these blue transporters stood crosswise on the street. On top,

highest point I ever reached with my bike (but only a few 100 heightmeters from the start)

there was a damaged bus and one of the tourists told me, another transporter had crushed into the bus and then turned to the side. I had seen this transporter, too. No one had been injured as far as I had been informed by this Norwegian man.
After the pass, the street most of the time was going downhill until Safa Shahir. Another record: I went 54,5km/h for a short while.
When I was near Massouds home, a man waved and shouted, so I thought it could be he. But it was just a funny guy, who wanted to help me with anything, from tea or water to WC. In the end he called Massoud when I showed him the whatsapp dialogue to explain that someone was waiting for me.
Massoud came and we went to his home. His son, Farbod (3) was sleeping at that time. But when he awoke, he was not afraid, maybe surprised to see me, but smiled.
Later, a neighbour arrived with her son Hossein (6). For the next few hours the boys played nice and peacefully.

Massoud’s wife and the neighbour had prepared dinner for hours and it looked and tasted great.

I was allowed (or nobody forbid the stranger) to help the boys and Massoud bringing the things back to the kitchen.
Hossein and his mother left at 10p.m. Farbod cried but Massoud played nicely with him and Farbod could calm down.

Yesterday one manager of the hostel had said/mimed that I could have breakfast at 6 what would have fit perfectly into my plan to leave early for the 130km tour, but the next manager didn’t know about that. So, I left at 6:30 without breakfast, but with some fruits I had bought and some chocolate I was well equipped. The chocolate (and 2 bananas as part of dinner) were excused by some problem in the guts I wanted to “cure” with it. (Worked well!).
Arash, the friend of Nader in Shiraz, had contacted Ali, another friend of his in Abadeh and we had made an appointment for later afternoon, something that should be possible even with headwind and many breaks.
On the way out of the city, a driver waved and then I saw it was that man, who had shown me the way to the hostel.
Mr G (=Garmin from now on) showed me a new record:
follow the street for 112km straight!

East of the street was a high and long mountain that provided shadow for a while so that until 7:30 I felt fresh and for another while still not hot.
In a village a man came out of a shop with a bag full of biscuits and he waved me to come to get two.
Then I drove for a while, realizing that the first 4-5 hours I feel very good and don’t need breaks for recovering, only for eating or putting on sunscreen etc.

10 o’clock is sun screen time! (The eco-Sun cream is hard to spread…)

The Germans on top of the pigeon tower in Isfahan (day 074) had said that they only had seen two bike tourists in Iran. With Nader, I had seen only one, and this one was most probably a local. We only saw him by chance, as on highways there is that central strip blocking the sight. And now, since Qom, I am driving on roads where the both directions sometimes are separated by 50 or even more meters. So, maybe dozens of bikers have passed my way without noticing each other?

And then I saw something. Two bikes riding side by side far in front of me. I tried to catch up and only slowly came nearer, apparently the were fast! I did my best and when I was near enough, I saw that only one was driving a bike, the other one a motorcycle and he was pulling the cyclist. I slowed down again, but this was not the last time for the day when I was driving faster than I wanted.
15km before Abadeh. A car stopped. A man came to me, and after the first standardized questions, her made a call and gave me his phone. It was his sister, talking in good English and inviting me for lunch. It was around 13:30 and I was probably too early anyway to meet Ali, so I agreed to this surprising invitation.
I should follow the car as their home were “near”.
Again I tried to be as fast as possible, hoping we would arrive soon, but it more than 10km! First, he drove at my speed, then he drove ahead and waited somewhere and then I didn’t see him anymore. Another car stopped and without words the driver gave me a package of cookies! When I had stored them in my bag and again looked around to find the driver, he suddenly was again next to me and the hunt went on. But it was not long anymore.
Amirhoeesin, so his name, brought me to his home where his sisters Arezoo and Elham waited for me. Arezoo is working as English teacher at university and in a private school and she translated for the family. For me was interesting that her maman sometimes walked around in my presence without headscarf, her elder sister Elham had put it away compltetely after some minutes and only Arezoo had it “on” (on half or sometimes less of her head).
After lunch (only Amirhoeesin and I were eating, the others were finished),

Only Amirhoeesin and his father were available for a photo

he had to go back to work, but he and Arezoo wanted to help me to find Ali’s home.
So, again I was hastening behind his car to the place that Ali had marked in a google map and then we said good-bye.
I started to write a message to Ali, when another car stopped, mother, grandma and a child. They wanted to help me and called Ali. He said to them, they should bring me to another crossroad to wait for him. Ok, driving behind a car again. But only 1km this time. They left me and I waited for Ali. A group of boys gathered around me and practised their 3 or 4 sentences they knew in English. Then Ali arrived and for the last time of this day I followed a car. We didn’t go back to the place that had been marked on the map, but to a kind of office.

Department of Development and equipping schools in Fars province

As Ali could speak only little English (and I still no Farsi), Arash had connected Ali with Nader to make some things clear. So, I would stay alone in a room of that office looking like a guest room

and Ali would come there in the morning.
But first, he went out again to bring food and after coming back he prepared tea. I thought we would drink tea together, but then he left.
I ate the food, drank the tea and started with my diary and uploading.
In the later evening Ali came back, he wanted to bring me something for dinner….

I ate all five peaches in the evening, because the were so ripe that i feared they wouldn’t be good in the morning. Maybe now I am not good in the night….

At 7, i got my bike from the garage, then had breakfast. This time, one Dutch greeted, and you could interpret his face as smiling, the Chinese lady greeted and smiled, too. After breakfast, the Chinese and I talked for a few minutes. She stays in Iran for 3 weeks and also will go to Shiraz. Then Mashad and then Tabriz. She went on to continue sightseeing Isfahan and so did I to “make” the rest of my tourist-in-Isfahan-to-do-list.
First was one of those bridges, I chose the Syo Se bridge, as it was nearest to my route but maybe it is not the most iconic and at night it would have been very attractive. I would say that the river looked bluer at the map.

Then I came to Vank church. It is in the Armenian quarter (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Julfa)

and in the same area you find a genocide memorial

and a museum.

There is a list of helpful people that also brings Franz Werfel, but he is a Czech there.

In the museum I found two things that are surprising (to me not so much anymore, as on this trip I had experienced similar things):
The genocide is clearly documented, and Turkey declared responsible.

Given the fact that Iran has a big “Turkish” province (Azerbaijan) and Turkey is an important neighbour that is no matter of course. And in the museum, you can e.g. see a painting of the crucifixion of Jesus (and this title).

For Muslims Jesus not only cannot be son of God or part of trinity as there is only one god, Jesus, as a Prophet, could not have been killed
(https://www.ojc.de/salzkorn/2005/islam-christentum/kreuzigung-jesus-koran/)
But in the Islamic state Iran, you find a well preserved Christian Church and a museum with such things.
Armenians had been in Iran since long, 400y ago many thousands had been deported and since that time settle in Isfahan. For me, it remains unexplained why these people after such a long time still have their own language and belief. Didn’t they want to integrate or was there integration unwelcomed or both?

Armenian beauty

I don’t know who had turned on my camera while I was in the museum, but now I have an interesting video where you can also here the difference of Iranian Armenian language to Armenian. (Upload to youtube in November)
The last sight was the Pigeon Tower. On top I met 3 Germans who also will go to Shiraz in the next days.

And then, around 10, I left Isfahan to Shareza. It was only 80km,

on the way to Arak, you could also get pomegranate juice – on the way to Shahreza they only sold fruits

so it was ok to start late and around 15h, I arrived. School was over, and young guys on bikes and motorcycles had fun to accompany me and making comments that I luckily didn’t understand.
For the first time, also girls on the street made comments or said hello, what had not happened so far, but here more than once. One girl offered help to find my hostel and I don’t even know why she knew that I was looking for it.
In the evening internet on my phone stopped working (there was no Wifi) and as I was communicating with Nader who helped me finding accommodations and with his friend Arash in Shiraz who wanted to plan my stay, I tried to fix that problem.
A man showed me the way to Irancell and with the help of five people from there and a man from a neighbouring shop who could communicate in English I got a fresh data package.