Because of work, Arash and his family left at 6 to Shiraz, so his aunt was alone after that lively Friday. We had breakfast with her self-made cherry jam, talking not too much (as we couldn’t)
I left in the cold morning (9° on my GPS) and after a few minutes, I met my first bike-packer in Iran. Daniel, an English teacher from Germany is also on his way to China, but first to Shiraz, so we exchanged contacts for a meeting there.
We both had been staying with a family and had decided to make an early visit at a historical site, he in Pasargad, I one step ahead, in Naqsh-e Rustam.
At 9 the thought of having a delicious snack made by Arash’s aunt made me hungry enough to stop for a break. I sat under a tree on which some lunch boxes were hanging in a bag for someone (else)
After about 25km, a farmer selling fruits waved to stop me. He was very euphoric and took a lot of selfies with me and wanted to have my whatsapp nr. I thought, I know this character….
Arriving in Naqsh-e Rustam was moving as there are some iconic sights on the world and these tombs belong to them.
In Naqsh-e Rustam, I took another look at my phone and saw new messages of the guy who wanted to invite me to his village, telling me that I had shortly met his cousin (the farmer who is similar euphoric to him…)
I did there my duty as a tourist and walked along those old graves and reliefs in early noon heat.
most tourists stayed only in the front part, avoiding too much walking in the heat
After that, Persepolis waited. At the parking, a young officer, Mohammed, stopped me at the gate. He sells the ticket for cars. He was eager to talk in German, French and English, wanted to talk about politics and emigration and would take care of my bike.
So I left him for the visit and bought a ticket. There a tour-guide offered to show me around for 70min and I thought this is a good way for me to do it.
She recommended to buy water because of the heat, but at the entrance she explained that for matters of religious respect drinking were not allowed at the palaces. She didn’t look as if she were joking so I just wondered what the purpose of a bottle with cold water would be that you only can drink when it is warm again.
She explained a lot, talking a bit mechanical, but also answering additional questions.
the template for Iran air
base of a revolving door
Armenian delegation bringing their treasures
spring chasing out winter
After 70min and two selfies, she left
and I decided to climb to the tomb at the hill in full sun and heat, because I wanted to be a good tourist.
When I came back to my bike; Mohammed wanted to talk on and offered me an extra lunch box of an officer that had recently died, but they still get is lunch…
And Daniel arrived, too. We started talking, then a man, that had met Daniel on the street, started talking to him and I changed back to Mohammed.
After a long time, we left, Daniel to find a place to stay as he wanted to see Persepolis in the morning, and I to Bahador in Marvdasht.
The place he had indicated on the map
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=29.9051323018046%2C52.837135791778564&z=17&hl=de
was empty, no house near and no person.
So I went back to the bigger street and asked someone to call him. He came and again I followed a car in the evening traffic. When we finally arrived at his home, we had done 7km…
We sat down for tea and his funny daughter Naghme (5) started a performance of gymnastics and Bruce Lee imitation, looking fiercely and (for me) moving too fast for good photos.
Her brother Zohrab (11), a quiet boy, learns Karate and Bahador does Varzesh-e-Bastani, where one out of a certain position wants to hit the upper leg of his opponent who tries to defend himself with a longer stick.
Dinner was good, and this time salad was the main course, without any rice, but with a lot of green side dishes and a chicken and fried potatoes.
I got an extra room (maybe the parents room?) and while a started writing this I heard Bahador studying for school with Zohrab.
Bathroom is in the yard, the washbasin in the open and I wonder how that works in winter when it is freezing.